We got lost and hiked in the dark in Pinnacles National Park

Posted On March 20, 2020

Pinnacles is one of the smallest parks in the National Parks System, but don’t let that fool you. They make national parks because there’s something there, and there’s a lot there, especially if you like to hike. In fact, in my top 5 hikes of all time, I gave both the short Lower Bear Gulch Cave Trail and Condor Gulch an honorable spot…

This park is only a 3 and a half-hour drive for us yet I’d never paid a visit until last year.  When I did, I had a horrible experience. The park was overcrowded, the campground was full, and after I waited in line for more than an hour to get in, the ranger told me they were at capacity and turned me around.  From what I had seen on the maps, and the small bit of reading I had done, I was in no hurry to return.  

But Lisa convinced me to return a year later, and now I’m a believer.  Our first leg of the hike was Moses Spring to Rim Trail Loop.  Departing from the Bear Gulch Day use area we took our time on the 2.2 mile (3.5 kilometer) roundtrip trail that meanders through striking rock formations and shaded narrow sections.  I have never seen the colors of moss and lichen on display here. Soon enough, the trail disappears under a pile of apartment complex-sized boulders forming a structure known as a talus cave.  It was at once exciting, breathtaking, and just plain fun. 

The small creek that helped create the cave runs along the trail the whole way, sometimes crossing it, sometimes cascading down a rock face beside you. I couldn’t convince myself that I wasn’t in the queue for a ride at Disneyland. (Especially because there are occasionally metal rails and concrete stairs to help get you up the rocks.)  The 3/4 mile (1.2 kilometer) Bear Gulch Caves section is ideal for kids and fun for adults too.

There were nearly a dozen birds above us, never flapping their wings as they rode the updrafts and weaved among the rocky spires for which the park is named. We could hear the wind passing over their feathers as they soared past, looking us straight in the eyes.

Bring a Flashlight
Lights are recommended but not required.  We did fine with the flashlights of our cell phones but went back the next day more prepared. On this day we decided to press on after the caves and conquer the 5.2-mile (8.5 kilometer) High Peaks Trail to Condor Gulch Trail Loop clockwise.   At least that was the plan.

All of the trails we took in the park are fairly well developed and well maintained.  Again, there were even some metal rails and stairs here and there.  A few rock sections even had footholds carved into the rock just big enough to place your shoe and climb up the makeshift stairs. 

At the top, we were rewarded with a panoramic view in almost every direction.  There’s a bench there with no back that allowed to rest for a while facing one way and then turn to admire another grand vista in the other direction.  

Meanwhile, the once nearly extinct California Condors circled just 40 or 50 feet overhead. There were nearly a dozen birds above us, never flapping their wings as they rode the updrafts and weaved among the rocky spires for which the park is named. We could hear the wind passing over their feathers as they soared past, looking us straight in the eyes. Only here have I ever been able to truly appreciate their majestic 8-foot wingspans.

The trails are semi-well marked in the park, though we did see some small groups getting confused here and there. Okay, we were one of them, and by missing a turn somewhere on the way down, we extended our hike by 3.6 miles (5.8 kilometers) by adding the High Peaks Trail to Bench Trail and Bear Gulch Trail. We found ourselves doing the last two miles (3.2 kilometers) in nearly complete darkness. It was a reminder to be prepared when you head out into nature.  A backup battery for our phones would have helped us with some light on the last part of the trail.  This is mountain lion area.  Encounters with humans are extremely rare, but knowing this didn’t keep us from imagining that every little noise in the dark would be the last one we heard. 

Pinnacles is a sleeper of a park among the giant national parks in California.  Yes, you should absolutely visit Yosemite and Sequoia and Kings Canyon among others, but put some strong consideration into Pinnacles if you have the time, especially if you like to hike. Also, carry a flashlight.